FAQs
Below is a list of Frequently Asked Questions. Please read through this list to see if your questions have been answered here before contacting us. If your questions are not answered in this list, please send us a message through the Contact page.
- What is a “mic mod kit”?
- What’s the difference between a “mod kit” and a “mod service”?
- What kind of results should I expect from installing one of your mod kits?
- Do you have a kit that will work for my mic?
- Which one of your kits will work with my Nady SCM900?
- Can you tell me exactly what you do to my mic when I buy one of your mod services?
- How do your mod kits/services compare to those offered by other sellers (Microphone-Parts.com, Michael Joly/Oktavamod, John Bonnell Mic Mods, JJ Audio, etc.)?
- My mic isn’t working. Will installing one of your mod kits fix the problem?
- Do you sell replacement capsules or transformers, and/or can you recommend a replacement for my mic?
- My mic isn’t working after installing a kit. What should I do?
- I think your prices are too high. Will you take $XX.XX for your kits?
A “mod kit” consists of the parts (capacitors) and instructions needed to modify or upgrade the circuit of a condenser microphone. When you purchase a kit, we will mail you the parts along with a download link for the instructions, which you can use to modify your own mic. You will need some basic tools to install our kits: screw drivers, soldering iron, de-soldering tool/braid, solder, safety glasses, etc. To install the kit, you must de-solder and remove the old components from the circuit board and replace them with the new components included in the kit.
What’s the difference between a “mod kit” and a “mod service”?
A “mod kit” is where I send the parts and instructions to you so you can modify your own mic. A “mod service” is where you send your mic to me, I install the parts for you in your mic, and send it back to you.
What kind of results should I expect from installing one of your mod kits?
Describing audio is very subjective, but I’ll do my best to answer this question like so: my mod kits take a decent mic and make it better. If you’re starting with an MXL 990, you’ll have a better 990 after the mod. If you’re starting with an MXL 2001, you’ll have a better 2001 after the mod. By replacing the inferior capacitors with high-quality caps, you can generally expect less noise, less distortion, and improved transient response. You can also expect an improvement in the mic’s frequency response, yielding a smoother sound than the mic in its stock form. Will it make your mic sound just like a Neumann U87? Probably not, or no one in their right mind would still buy a Neumann U87. But it will make your mic sound better than it did before, for a very minimal investment of a few bucks and a few minutes of your time.
Do you have a kit that will work for my mic?
For answers to this question, please see our Compatibility page.
Which one of your kits will work with my Nady SCM900?
Older (pre-2002) versions of the SCM900 used a circuit that’s similar to the MXL 2001/V67G. More recent versions use a circuit that’s similar to the MXL 990/V63M/V57/SP-1/2006/etc. See “Do you have a kit that will work for my mic?” above to identify which version you have, and which kit will be compatible with your mic.
Can you tell me exactly what you do to my mic when I buy one of your mod services?
I offer a “basic” mod service, where I will install one of my kits in your mic. I also offer a “deluxe” or “advanced” service for certain models where I will install one of my kits, dampen the body of the mic to reduce resonance, and remove one or two inner layers of headbasket mesh to help reduce reflections inside the headbasket. I use the same kits in your mic that I sell to everyone else. I offer these services for people who don’t have the tools, skills, or experience to modify their own mics.
How do your mod kits and services compare to those offered by other sellers (Microphone-Parts.com, Michael Joly/Oktavamod, John Bonnell Mic Mods, JJ Audio, etc.)?
Since I’ve never used any of those other kits or services and don’t know which specific parts they replace or what they replace them with, I can’t really compare my kits to their kits or services. I also won’t pretend that comparing their kits/services to mine are an apples-to-apples comparison, because that may not be the case. However, I can offer these general differences:
- My mod kits replace the most critical components in the circuit, which are usually cheap, generic, ceramic capacitors that typically prevent these mics from performing up to their potential. Specifically, my 990 kit replaces three capacitors. My 2001 kit replaces seven capacitors.
- The Microphone-Parts.com kits replace nearly all of the components in the circuit, and they also offer a kit that completely replaces the circuit–board and all. Microphone-Parts also sells replacement capsules. I do not.
- According to the Oktavamod/Michael Joly website, their mods replace every component on the circuit board and in some cases, they physically modify the capsule housing (at least, with the small-capsule pencil mics such as the MXL 603S, 991, 604, 600, etc.). Like Microphone-Parts, I think Oktavamod also offers replacement capsules.
- John Bonnell doesn’t give any details about what specific parts he replaces with his mods. He only says that he replaces inferior components with superior ones. His website also states that he does not replace the capsule with his mods.
Apart from those differences, something else that I can compare is prices. The Microphone-Parts kits usually cost around $100. The other guys normally charge at least $200 to $300 or more per mic for their mod services. Most of the parts used in condenser mic circuits are relatively inexpensive, so when you buy one of their services, you’re paying mostly for their time and expertise. On the other hand, my kits cost around $8 to $10. You’re only paying me for the parts, instructions, and the time you’ll save trying to identify and source your own parts. I’ve already invested the time researching the mics, sourcing the parts, and creating the instructions for you. So the time you spend is yours, not mine.
If it’s any consolation, I’ve sold hundreds of these kits since 2011, and to my knowledge, I’ve never had a single dissatisfied customer. I also do my best to provide excellent customer service, even if I lose money on the deal. I believe that’s the right thing to do, the way to run a successful business in the long run, and it has proven to be true in my experience so far. I would also encourage you to read my seller feedback on Ebay and the testimonials in my listings. They speak for themselves.
My mic isn’t working. Will installing one of your mod kits fix the problem?
My kits are designed to be installed in fully-functional, working microphones. If your mic is not working, installing a kit may or may not fix the problem. Instead, the problem could be completely unrelated to the parts that are replaced with my kits (e.g., the capsule, wiring, etc). Troubleshooting a problem with a mic can take hours–way more time than simply installing a kit in a working mic. If you have a broken mic, I would encourage you to try installing a kit yourself (or ask a friend), since you basically have nothing to lose. If you’re fortunate, the kit may fix your mic–if the problem component happens to be one that is replaced by the kit. If it doesn’t fix your mic, you really haven’t lost anything (except a few bucks for the kit and a few minutes of your time), since the mic was already broken. It’s just a question of whether it’s worth it to spend a few bucks on the kit and a few minutes of your time to see if it will fix the problem. Also keep in mind that when dealing with budget mics, it’s often cheaper to simply buy another working mic (new or used) than to pay the bench fee for a technician to repair your broken mic.
Do you sell replacement capsules or transformers, and/or can you recommend a replacement for my mic?
I do not sell replacement capsules or transformers. If you’re interested in replacing one or both of these components in your mic, I would recommend installing the mod kit first, then use the mic for a while and see how you like it. Then, if you decide you still want to try a different capsule, the Microphone-Parts or Studio 939 websites are good sources for them. They offer several different capsules that each have a slightly different “color” to them. You’ll just need to read the descriptions to decide which one will best fit your needs. I know that replacement transformers are also available for mics that share the same circuit as the MXL 2001/V67G/etc, but I can’t make any specific recommendations.
If you do decide to replace your capsule and/or transformer, I don’t recommend doing it at the same time as when you install the mod kit. If you make several changes at the same time, you won’t really know how each mod affected the sound of the mic. Also, if you do them all at the same time and there’s a problem with your mic afterwards, it’s more difficult to troubleshoot and determine the cause of the problem (because there are more factors involved).
I’ve installed replacement capsules in some of my client’s mics, but I’ve never replaced one in my own. I always felt like I could get perfectly usable results with the stock capsules, and installing the mod kit always seemed a bigger bang-for-the-buck/return on investment when compared to paying $100 or more for a different capsule that may or may not sound better–just different.
In any case, our mod kits are not capsule or transformer-specific, and do not perform any “corrective EQ” to account for any shortcomings with a specific capsule or transformer, so whether you are keeping the stock capsule/transformer or replacing it with another, our mod kits will still work for your mic.
My mic isn’t working after installing a kit. What should I do?
If you get no sound (or distorted, low-output sound) from your mic after installing one of our kits, try the steps below:
- Double-check all of your solder joints.
- Be sure you don’t have any wires that have come loose from the capsule or circuit board. Touch up the solder joints for the wires if needed. I hear about loose or broken wires pretty often.
- Be sure you don’t have any broken or lifted traces on the circuit board. If you find any, you can install a wire jumper to bypass the break. If necessary, you can also try using a multi-meter to test for any breaks in a trace that aren’t obvious to the naked eye.
- If you’re installing a 2001 mod kit, check the polarity of the two polarized caps (the blue caps with the black stripe) to be sure you have the + and – leads connected correctly. Consult the instructions PDF for more details on how to correctly install them.
- Try reinstalling the original caps that you removed, if necessary. Begin with cap C2 (2001 mod kit) or C13 (990 mod kit) on the underside of the circuit board. It’s the most likely culprit, since styroflex caps are easy to overheat and damage. Repeat with other caps (reinstalling the originals), if you suspect any of them may have gotten damaged or overheated. If you identify the damaged cap and need a replacement, let us know.
I think your prices are too high. Will you take $XX.XX for your kits?
Believe it or not, I occasionally get asked this question. After paying for packing materials, postage, listing fees, final value fees, Paypal fees, web hosting fees, and the parts themselves, I make a few bucks on each kit that I sell. So my profit margin is already very low. In addition to recording and tinkering with mics, I also work a regular, full-time job (just like you), and I sell these kits and services on the side, mostly for fun and to make a few extra bucks to support my own habit of buying mics, recording equipment, and drum gear. This allows me to keep my prices low compared to many of the other kits and services that are out there on the market today. I’m not trying to make a living selling mod kits and services. If I were, I’d have to charge much higher prices, or my family would starve!